Saturday, July 07, 2007

Fast(?) Forward

Normally I relish the opportunity to use my computer. However, keeping up with this blog hasn't been as intrinsically motivating as I thought it would be. I think it just comes down to the fact that I would rather be building my boat than writing about it. I have also noticed that other builders who have posted progress on the web tend to be more diligent at the beginning of the project and also near the completion so my lapse is a common oversight.

So, a LOT has happened since the last post.

I have installed the skeg and rub strips on the bottom.


I have finished inlaying a CLC logo on the front seat. (Actually this was done some time ago. I just forgot to post it.)

I have fiberglassed the bottom of the inside and I was very pleased with the fillets under the fiberglass and how transparent the fiberglass turned out. I decided to follow a little bit different procedure than was suggested in the manual. The main ideas can be found at http://www.laughingloon.com/epoxy.html.

While I'm on the topic of fiberglassing, I decided, a little late, to fiberglass the outside of the #1 hull panels like some other PMD builders have done. I say a little late because the portions of the fiberglass cloth left over from fiberglassing the bottom panel had been relegated to scraps and were no longer in a condition to provide full length pieces for the #1 panel (translated: they were in pieces, some had hardened epoxy on the edges, and they needed to be retrieved from the trash can). But with the confidence I had gained fiberglassing the bottom panel and with some instructions I read on the net for making butt seams (http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/index.htm#2.4) I proceeded undaunted to the task. I discovered that cutting fiberglass cloth that has been 'wet out' with epoxy can be a challenge, even with a sharp razor, that peeling back the cloth to remove the trimmed cloth distorts the cloth weave, that the short loose fibers of fiberglass cloth get stuck EVERYWHERE, and I learned that when the process is performed at elevated temperatures you can't afford to waste any time "learning" the procedure while performing the procedure. I worked feverishly and fortunately I didn't have a huge mess to address when I was done. In the end the finished product turned out quite nice. However, the lines at each seam, produced when I cut through the fiberglass cloth with a razor blade, were visible. But you have to be pretty close to see them to notice. And, since that portion is going to get painted, the lines will never be seen.





Back to fillets - the fillets on the forward transom were nearly my Waterloo. To be honest I just cannot seem to get a handle on these fillets. Certainly part of the problem is that I am going for a 10" finish rather than a 10' finish. You see everything on this project so far had turned out as good or even better than I had hoped and my perfectionistic tendencies had been rewarded handsomely. So some fillets with "character" in the most visible portion of the boat simply could not be tolerated. These fillets are short, they involve a large radius, there are numerous transitions from one panel level to another, and they are in an awful position to sand. I must admit they held me up. I started off with smaller radius fillets leaving myself the option of filling in with larger radius fillets. I finally allowed a rather crude glopping of wood flour-thickened epoxy to harden in place (no evidence, er,... I mean, pictures available) in the hope of sanding the mess into a proper contour. Very quickly it became clear sanding was not the way to go. So, I decided to sacrifice one of my chisels that I don't use very often and I ground the end into a wide curve.

Employing the principle of the cabinet scrapers I had used earlier, I used the repurposed chisel to scrape the fillets into an acceptable shape. The final result is shown below.

Fortunately other fillets have gone much better.


I have constructed the yard and boom. The instruction book really needs some clarification on the whole sailing rig setup. I'm sure there is some significant leeway in terms of locations for cleats, blocks, holes, etc. but progress really slowed down while I tried to figure out where things went without having to reposition things later. For those having similar issues I provide the following pictures for reference, particularly related to how I chose to position the yard jaws on the yard.




The darks spots on the jaws are the holes and counter sinks that I just filled with wood flour thickened-epoxy.

I incorporated some of the suggestions from other builders regarding rigging (http://intronfilms.com/Passagemaker_dinghy/viewtopic.php?t=66). This picture shows a hole at the end of the boom as well as a groove that will make an outhaul arrangement possible

In the picture below you see my version of John Pollard's suggestion to tie a line to the top of the sail, guide it through a deep slot in the top of the yard, and secure a loop in the other end of the line to a screw. (John is active at Passagemaker dinghy site -

In an old TV ad for Rolaids they asked the question, "How do you spell relief?" The following picuture is an answer to that question for those PMD builders who fear the hole they must cut in the hull for the daggerboard. That bright spot is a 1/2" hole nicely centered at the botom of the daggerboard trunk. That hole provides the pilot hole for a router bit used to cut the slot in the bottom of the boat. WHEW!

Peter (a fellow PMD builder) will perk up on this one. He has a trailer like mine and neither of us are pleased with the bunk arrangement. So, I duplicated the curvature of the bottom of the boat on two bunks that allow the boat to be farther forward on the trailer and support the boat over a larger area.
I've installed the rubrails, bulkheads, and center seat (OK, thwart! And as I understand it this is not the fore thwart, nor is it the aft thwart, it is the center thwart. My question is this - if you have four thwarts in a boat, how do you refer to the thwarts that are toward the center of the boat. And is it true that four thwarts make a gallon?).


I also took the advice of several others and picked up an additional block with becket to provide additional mechanical advantage for the mainsail.

The building tips at the CLC website include one by Jay Hockenberry.

http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/shoptips_drillfill.php .

Jay makes the point that any fasteners that pierce the epoxy provide an avenue for water to spoil the appearance of the wood by seeping into the wood fibers. While silicone caulk can be used Jay suggests drilling an oversize hole, filling it with epoxy, and then drilling the pilot hole for the fastener. This provides an epoxy barrier around the fastener and prevents the opportunity for water to soak into the wood.

The picture below shows the shiny inside surface of a hole in the yard where I used this procedure. This hole happens to be for a lashing line.

In the next picture it is difficult to see but each small hole is filled with epoxy waiting for the pilot holes to be drilled for the screws used to mount the deck plates. I hope to use this procedure for every fastener. And in the case of the oarlock risers (inital 1/4" holes shown drilled below) I hope the procedure also helps prevent the incidents of splitting I have read about lately.

It is now August and I had hoped to be sailing by now. Some days progress is terrific and other days it takes forever to get things done. I tried picking up the pace for a while but I could feel myself "overdriving my headlights". I've backed off and have tried to take more satisfaction in each portion that has been completed at a level of quality about which I can feel good. My new goal is Labor Day. I think that is realistic and since I will only be teaching part-time this fall I intend to utilize some of those wonderful fall days to enjoy Woodstock.

P.S. I really hate to cover the bottom with paint. From a distance I like the way a painted hull looks but my results on the hull have been quite striking.

Later!









1 Comments:

At 10:42 PM, Blogger Deb said...

Hi
I see in one of your posts from 2007 that you have a Craftsman Super Router mounted in a table. I have been hunting hi and low trying to find the manual for this router as I recently bought one. You wouldn't happen to have the manual and be willing to copy it for a struggling wannabe woodworker would you? I could send you a small remittence as a token of appreciation if you like.
Thanks

 

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